Mastering Lash Styling: The Art of Enhancing Every Eye Shape

Eyelash extensions styling. Before and after eyelash extensions

Lash styling might seem complicated at first, but like anything in life, once you understand the principles and put in the practice, it becomes second nature. The key to achieving flawless lash extensions isn’t just about technique - it’s about customisation.

Styling is arguably the most crucial element of our work as lash artists. Every set of lashes should enhance our client’s unique features, making them feel confident and beautiful. To create the perfect lash design, we must consider several factors:

✔️ Eye shape (round, almond, deep-set, etc.)
✔️ Eyebrow positioning (high or low brows)
✔️ Eyelid type (hooded, mono-lid, or protruding)
✔️ Eye spacing (close-set, wide-set, or balanced)
✔️ Natural lash direction & condition
✔️ Client preferences

At I AM Lash Academy, we teach foundational styling techniques, but the true artistry lies in adapting each style to suit the individual. We work with natural, round, squirrel, kitten, dolly, and cat eye styles - each of which must be adjusted based on eye shape and desired correction.

Lash Styling: It’s All in the Details

The secret to flawless lash application is understanding lash shape and length variation. Instead of defaulting to 8mm inner corners, why not experiment with 7mm, 6mm, or even 5mm and 4mm for a more seamless transition? Our 5-7mm mixed length trays are a must-have for any lash artist looking to refine their styling.

Layering & Mixing Curls for the Best Results

Working with lash layers is essential - not only for creating smooth transitions but also for achieving the coveted Kim K wispy effect. The rule is simple:

✔️ For smooth lines, apply longer lashes to the bottom layer.
✔️ For wispy effects, place the longest spikes on the top layer.

Curl mixing is just as important - always assess your client’s natural lash growth direction before choosing curls. My top tip? Style with the eyes open. Marking the eyelid where you want the longest point of the design helps you visualise the result before application. Taking a portrait photo of your client also helps reveal asymmetries that aren’t always noticeable at first glance.

Avoid These Common Styling Mistakes

🚫 Forcing a predetermined style instead of adapting to the client’s features.
🚫 Relying on the same lash map instead of analysing the eye’s natural shape.
🚫 Neglecting correction techniques - sometimes, small tweaks can make a dramatic difference.

Before starting, always ask yourself:
✨ Do I need to open the eye, elongate the shape, bring the eyes closer together, or lift the outer corners?
✨ What is my ultimate goal in enhancing this client’s natural beauty?

The Role of the Lash Artist: You Are the Architect

Lash styling isn’t just about applying extensions it’s about sculpting, shaping, and perfecting. Every eye is unique, and our role as lash artists is to enhance, balance, and create a look that suits the client’s natural beauty.

For the best results:
✔️ Work with a variety of lash lengths.
✔️ Layer your lashes strategically.
✔️ Mix curls to complement natural lash direction.

Once you master these techniques and challenge yourself to step out of your comfort zone, you’ll see a transformation in your work - and so will your clients.

Now that you have these insights, it’s time to put them into practice! Perfection is within reach - because you know how.

If you’d like to learn more join Arune’s Styling Seminar!

I AM Lash ♥️