Anyone can learn a technique. A true lash artist learns to adapt — to faces, to requests, to the endless variety of what a client might walk through the door wanting.
I'm Arune Mooney, founder of I AM Lash, and this is something I feel strongly about — so I wanted to write it down properly.
There's a real distinction in this industry between someone who applies lashes and someone who is truly a lash artist. And it's not about how many years you've been doing this, or how many courses are on your CV. It comes down to one word: versatility.
A lash technician can do the job. They've learned a technique, practised it, and deliver it consistently. But a lash artist can give every single client exactly what they came for — because they've invested in the skills to make that possible.
One Technique Is Not Enough
It's so easy to get comfortable. You find a style that works, a curl that looks good, a map that photographs well — and you stick with it. I get it. But here's the honest truth: when a client sits in your chair and what they need simply doesn't fit your one mould, you have a problem.
If your entire offering is one lash technique, one lash curl, one lash map — you're not adapting to your client. You're fitting your client into your limitations. And that's not lash artistry. That's a production line.
As a lash artist, you need to be able to offer a full range of lash extension styles and techniques, including:
- Classic lashes — clean, polished, natural enhancement using a 0.15 diameter
- Light classic lashes using 0.07 volume lashes — for a barely-there, airy effect
- Light volume lashes — the sweet spot between natural and full
- Volume and mega volume lashes — for clients who want more drama
- Wispy lashes — textured, fluttery, mixed-length sets
- Kim K lashes, anime lashes, wet look lashes — statement styles for clients who want impact
- Bespoke lash maps tailored to individual eye shapes and facial features
Each of these serves a different person, a different mood, a different moment in their life. If you can only offer one — you're turning away everyone else.
"Lash extensions are like jeans. Some of us like skinny. Some like flared. Some like straight, ripped, baggy — you name it. Different people like different styles. The same is completely true with lashes."
Invest in Your Lash Curls
This is one that gets overlooked more than it should. Your curl choice has an enormous impact on the final result — and not every curl suits every client. An eye that needs a soft, open effect will not be served by the same curl you'd use for someone wanting dramatic lift.
What if the curl you always use simply doesn't suit that client's eye shape? What if they want something softer, more natural? Investing in your curl range — B, C, CC, M, D, L — and knowing when and how to use each one, means you can genuinely tailor every lash set rather than defaulting to whatever you have in stock.
Invest in Your Lash Maps
Eye shapes are endlessly varied. Hooded eyes, monolids, downturned eyes, deep-set eyes — the same lash map does not work on all of them. A doll-eye map that beautifully opens up one client can make another look closed off entirely. A cat-eye set that flatters one face shape can pull another downward in completely the wrong direction.
Learning to read a face, assess an eye shape, and design a bespoke lash map for that specific client — that is what separates a lash technician from a true lash artist. It takes training. It takes practice. And it is absolutely worth it.
Invest in Your Thickness
This is another area where so many lash artists limit themselves without realising it. If you're only reaching for 0.07 for volume and 0.15 for classics, you're missing a whole spectrum of options — and those options make a real difference to your results.
Here's how I think about it:
- 0.05 / 0.06 / 0.07 — Extremely fine lashes, primarily used for volume techniques. Personally, I love using 0.07 in the classic technique to create a soft, nude look.
- 0.10 — A very fine lash, most popular for 2D volume. Also a great choice for clients with finer natural lashes in the classic technique, to achieve a natural finish.
- 0.12 — An average thickness, used in the classic technique for clients with thinner natural lashes. This is actually my favourite thickness for classics — it works on the majority of clients.
- 0.15 — Also an average thickness, used in the classic technique on clients with healthy, strong natural lashes. The most popular classic thickness overall.
Understanding your diameters and choosing intentionally based on each client's natural lashes — that's the difference between a good set and a great one.
Invest in Your Lengths
Lash extensions come in a wide variety of lengths, and how you use them has changed enormously even in my time in the industry. When I first trained, 8mm was used in the inner corners as the shortest length in a set. Now, I can create a beautiful short, natural set where 8mm is actually the longest length used.
I work with anything between 5mm and 15mm depending on the client and the look we're going for. And within a single set, I'd typically use around five or more different lengths — the variation is what creates dimension, flow, and a result that looks intentional rather than flat. Using only three lengths is very old school and honestly, it shows in the finished look. It doesn't flatter the eye the way a well-mapped, multi-length set does.
Investing in a full length range and learning how to map them properly is one of the quickest ways to elevate the quality of your lash sets.
Invest in Your Training
None of this comes without investment — and I mean investing in your education consistently, not just once when you first qualified. The lash industry moves. New techniques come through. Client preferences shift. The lash artist who keeps learning, keeps adding to their skill set, is the one who can confidently meet any client who walks through the door.
Dramatic volume or barely there. Classic or wispy. Structured or fluttery. Whatever the request — a true lash artist doesn't have to say "I don't do that." They simply ask: how do you want to feel when you look in the mirror?
That's the standard I hold myself to, and it's the standard I believe every serious lash professional should aspire to.
Versatility isn't a nice-to-have. It's the foundation of what it means to truly serve your clients — and to call yourself a lash artist.
Arune Mooney, I AM Lash ♥️