It’s Easy When You Know How.
As featured in ‘Lash-Ed’ Magazine
It’s easy when you know how. Just like in any other walk of life, nothing is truly easy until you’ve been given the right instruction—and taken the time to practice and perfect your technique. When it comes to eyelash styling, this couldn’t be more true.
Arguably, eyelash styling is the most important element of our work as lash artists. The eyelash styles we choose must complement each client’s unique features and make them look—and feel—beautiful. When selecting the right eyelash styling, there are several essential factors to consider: eye shape, brow position, lid type, lash growth direction, spacing between the eyes, natural lash condition, and of course, the client’s preferences.
Eyelash Extensions Styles
All eyelash styles taught on my eyelash styling courses at the I AM Lash Academy are professional guidelines, not one-size-fits-all solutions. It’s crucial to remember that each eyelash style must be adapted and personalised. That’s where the artistry begins.
We learn natural, round, squirrel, kitten, dolly, and cat eye styles. But then, we take it further—adapting those styles to suit upturned or downturned eyes, close- or wide-set eyes, round eyes, hooded lids, deep-set or protruding eyes. It can seem like a lot to absorb at first, but with practice and understanding of eyelash styling, it becomes second nature.
Eyelash Extension Lengths
One key to effective eyelash styling is understanding that styling is all about shape. And to create beautiful shapes, you need a wide range of lash lengths. Move beyond the basic 8mm inner corners—it’s time to introduce 7mm, 6mm, or even 5mm and 4mm lashes.
Our short length eyelash extensions are ideal for detailed eyelash styling work. The 5–7mm mixed trays are a must-have, providing flexibility and creativity to enhance any eyelash style, whether you’re creating an elongated cat eye or a wide-eyed dolly effect.
Work in Layers
Working in layers is a game-changer for eyelash styling. Whether you’re aiming for smooth lines or that iconic wispy Kim K effect, layering creates dimension and polish. For smooth sets, place longer lashes on the bottom layer. For spiky styles, add the longest lashes on the top layer. This approach brings versatility to your lash sets and elevates every eyelash styling you design.
Mixing Lash Curls
Curl mixing is another essential technique in advanced eyelash styling. Always evaluate the natural lash direction, and style with the client’s eyes open. Mark the highest point of the styling directly on the eyelid to maintain accuracy—this works for every eyelash style, whether you’re lifting, opening, or elongating the eye.
Taking a straight-on portrait photo of your client can also help. It allows you to clearly see their true eye shape and compare both eyes—since most of us have some degree of asymmetry, which can be missed in person.
Common Eyelash Styling Mistakes
Many lash artists fall into the trap of picking a go-to map or style without tailoring it to the client. This is one of the most common eyelash styling mistakes. A styling map might only be suitable if the eyes are naturally balanced and don’t need correction—which is rare!
Before choosing your eyelash style, always assess the client’s eyes and ask:
- Do they need to be opened up?
- Do they need to look longer or more almond-shaped?
- Should we create the illusion of more space between the eyes—or less?
- Do we want to lift or soften the corners?
Your job, as the artist, is to decide on the goal, and then choose the eyelash styling techniques that achieve it. That’s how you create a truly flattering and transformative set.
Style Eyelash Extensions to Compliment the Eyes
In conclusion, the importance of expert eyelash styling cannot be overstated. You are the architect. You must design a shape that enhances the client’s natural features while respecting their preferences.
To achieve the best results:
- Use a variety of lash lengths
- Work in layers
- Mix your curls
- And most importantly, challenge yourself to work with the actual eyes in front of you—not just the maps or styles you’re most comfortable with.
Now that you’ve had a little guidance, and I know you’ll practice with intention, eyelash styling will become a powerful tool in your artistry. It’s easier when you know how—and now you do.
With love, Arune ♥️